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Thanks Orca but by the time you add the postage from the US it is expensive. Will check out Aldi etc for heat guns with nozzles, I chucked out the nozzles for mine as I was only using it for paint stripping in the old days before PVC windows arrived and stopped all the stripping and painting. Still would like one of the little jobs with the cradle if anybody knows where to get them in the UK.
 

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Natural gas heat gun...

I use this heat gun...



...and the welded loop shown was prepared just yesterday for a Wet Cell II DT-10-S

These type of heat guns are available from many stores near you right now :)
 

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I use this heat gun...These type of heat guns are available from many stores near you right now :)
:):) Used to use these but now I normally use a candle as I find I can control the heat better but thought a heat gun would be better. I have just blown up my hot air gun and burnt down half the house. Thought I would make a nozzle for it out of layers of kitchen foil. Worked great on the first loop so put it down and got the next in the shrink tube. Funny I thought as the shrink tube was reluctant to shrink, but I pressed on thinking I wasn't applying enough heat. I then noticed the gun was starting to glow but still pressed on. When it the gun started to melt I realised I had problems. Lots of jumping around and swearing sorted the problem. I realised that when I had put down the gun after the first loop I had squashed the soft foil so that there was not a nozzle for the air to blow through causing the gun to overheat badly. Off the B&Q tomorrow to buy a new gun with proper nozzles:eek:
 

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:):) Used to use these but now I normally use a candle as I find I can control the heat better but thought a heat gun would be better. I have just blown up my hot air gun and burnt down half the house. Thought I would make a nozzle for it out of layers of kitchen foil. Worked great on the first loop so put it down and got the next in the shrink tube. Funny I thought as the shrink tube was reluctant to shrink, but I pressed on thinking I wasn't applying enough heat. I then noticed the gun was starting to glow but still pressed on. When it the gun started to melt I realised I had problems. Lots of jumping around and swearing sorted the problem. I realised that when I had put down the gun after the first loop I had squashed the soft foil so that there was not a nozzle for the air to blow through causing the gun to overheat badly. Off the B&Q tomorrow to buy a new gun with proper nozzles:eek:
Yep - candle's the answer. You get much better control of the 'cook'.
 

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And after you have all went to all that trouble of welding/fuzing two pieces of plastic together, you all find out that the biggest problem is the Loop itself, especially if there is no sink-tip being utilised and a 'Blood Knot' is the main knot prefered instead of the loop-to-loop-method.

Of course most sensible fly flshers use the loop-to-loop-method or one thats equally as good, but there is always the odd 'Numpty' who would prefer to do it his way, and that usually ends up in a disaster!

Myself I prefer the home made Braided Mono Loops because I can make them any length I want and I cant whip them if I want before slipping the Aquasure onto them, unlike the made-up one's that are over-glued below the loop meaning I cant thread my fly line through & up to the loop. I've been making my own loops for over 20 years without any problems of breakages or anything, but I've had problems with these bloody-so-called-welded-loops though, Orvis especially.
 

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I got the solder pro 70 gas soldering iron kit £29.99 and the solder pro 50/70deflector tip £1.49 from www.maplin.co.uk. it takes butane gas and comes in a box that fits easily into you tackle bag so you can use it anywhere. it is the same one that Blue Zulu used in his brilliant Thread 'Skagit- Putting it all together' it can be found in the great threads. I hope this helps.
 

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Having rebiult the house and bought a new hot air gun I resumed battle with the Guideline shooting head loop. Things seemed to go pretty well and I put on 3 whippings of kevlar thread covered with a couple of coats of Zap. Only thing left was the Aquasure coating but thought I would check the strength first. Pulled it on the spring balance and things were looking good until at 8lb it just exploded and the core ripped out.



These lines do not like welded loops so have giving up and will go down the braded loop route.
 

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Hi,
I make about 100 welded loops each year, so I think you probably used different materials (PU + PVC). PVC has a much higher melting point than PU and so you overheat the Power Taper.
Cheers
Martin
No definately not a mix as I found that out awhile ago. I have made loads of loops but I cannot get this stuff to play ball.
 

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. Pulled it on the spring balance and things were looking good until at 8lb it just exploded and the core ripped out.



These lines do not like welded loops so have giving up and will go down the braded loop route.
This is exactly why I will not use them as you have no idea how strong the bond is between the core and the outer coating and you are fully relying on the outer coating to hold everything together. You also have no idea what you have done to the core and molecular structure of the coating by heating it up to a non controlled temp. briaded loops may not look as nice but they can be replaced whenever you want and it wont alter the length or weight of the line by doing so.
 

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Response to gauntlet being thrown down...

Welded Loop for Guideline Powertaper Floater

Materials:

Cut end of Guideline PT floater head, cut ends of fly line loop from another line, shrink tubing, value heat gun



Loop placement - pre-weld



Head end placement - pre-weld



Start the weld at the head end



Progress of weld towards the loop



Head end finished, still within shrink tubing



Head end finished, & revealed out of shrink tube



Loop end finished



The whole thing





This loop wasn't tested to destruction, but managed to stay perfect with gentle progressive pulling through to 24.5lb on a spring balance

 
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