Kharlovka Report Week 36

19983 Views 64 Replies 23 Participants Last post by Black Boar, Apr 5, 2009

splash

Discussion Starter · Sep 8, 2008

Just back from a week on the Kharlovka with Greenbanks ([email protected]), Dr Philgood and Dr Brown. I probably won't have my photos until Saturday when I get home but wanted to start a thread which hopefully will grow a bit into an interactive travel blog with a bit of participation from the others.

Well what can you say about this wild place? The trauma of lost bags, the miltary control at Murmansk, helicopter crash landings

, sea eagles, bears, lemmings, hikes up mountains and riding the scree to get to the pools, tame mink and a fantastically well run camp in a wild wild place is how I would summarise it. Oh and quite a few salmon in rivers varying in size and character from the say the Lower Tay at Stobhall (Lower Kharlovka) to a tumbling highland stream (Upper Rynda).

Anyway I will post a few more details and photos in the week to come.....

41 - 60 of 65 Posts

splash

Discussion Starter · #41 · Sep 12, 2008

Hurdur's flies were something else, I have a Mar Lodge that he kindly gave me and I would love to have the time to source the materials and tie these, certainly its an aspiration for my dotage but its great to see this tradition being maintained by a few forum members

I wonder if the Park Shrimp will also be a "classic" in 70 years time when goodness knows what will constitute the modern go to salmon fly

greenbanks

· #42 · Sep 14, 2008

12

Like all fishing trips this one had to come to a conclusion where we would all depart and head back to our respective countries.Time to Go Home.

Leaving the little cabin that was comfortable for the last week.

The camp dog seemed non plussed by our departure.

The chopper was loaded and we assembled to say goodbye.

Lift Off

landing at Rynda en route to Murmansk for additional passengers.

Goodbye to the river

We arrived at Murmansk and had a nervous time whilst Dr Philgood and Dr PB were subject to intense scrutiny from the local armed police who quickly assembled a firing squad-their crime? smuggling Park Shrimps back to the UK,however it was soon discovered that Dr Phil's bag had been in Mumansk all along allegedly missing, but the scanners at the airport went haywire because of Macd's deadly park shrimps being inside.

And then the Fokker got going eventually to Stockholm.

First port of call for myself,Shep and Keith?

I hope this report has not left you feeling.

Great trip,great river and camp organisation,great food and enough salmon to make you think that itch isnt completely scratched-there may be a second chapter next year?

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044

· #43 · Sep 14, 2008

Excellent Report

Thank you for such a great report

.
The report and photos were great, giving a great insight into what quality fishing is available at the Atlantic Salmon Reserve -Kharlovka.

For those who may be interested in some more interesting photographs of this most stunning of fishing venues, i came across this site, which provides some outstanding slideshows:

http://www.flyinfish.org/

I even think there are some members of this forum, namely Salar76, and Wilbert in some of the shots.

splash

Discussion Starter · #44 · Sep 14, 2008

Thanks Mo, the slideshow is great, it amazing how we take many similar shots on our week out there. The camp manager at Kharlovka has some truly outstanding slideshows on his laptop taken with (i think) a Nikon DSLR, which he has set to music.

It certainly a place for the photography fan as well as the fisher and hopefully I'll get Dr Philgoods pics of the bears that they saw when fishing the Rynda in due course

drphilgood

· #45 · Sep 14, 2008

kharlovka week 36

I can't let the Caledonian junior members of the squad have all the fun here, so think you need to have some balance from south of the border. This was my first Kola trip, too, and have to say that it has only whetted the appetite for more. The fishing was certainly not for the faint hearted, nor the hiking over the hills. Both Paul and I had lost 6lbs weight by return despite the excellence of the food.
Will attach one or two additional snaps, (when I work out how to do it or get advice from Splash), including our very close encounter with the brown bears. When you see the speed they move as the helicopter approaches, you realise that your only hope in a difficult situation would be to throw yourself in and hope the river gets you before the bears.
The other thing that really impressed was the Russian approach to poachers; they shoot them! We had several encounters with Speznatz special forces snipers deployed over the catchment and it was a pretty good reason to stick close to your guide.
Splash distinguished himself by not falling in once, amply made up for by Kenny falling in most days.
The organisation of the camp was fantastic. I was one of the unlucky duo whose luggage failed to arrive at Murmansk, and I would not wish that on anyone, especially having to deal with the miserable buggers at the airport on the return trip. Everyone said that Murmansk airport was much improved in the last few years, well it must have been a complete hell hole before then, because it is without doubt the most awful place I have ever visited.
Greenbanks has skilfully managed to avoid mentioning how he wimped out of the overnight camping on the Litza; personally would have jumped at the chance of an overnight tent when we had a ground frost the next morning. He also managed to spend most of the week upsetting his man, the head guide on the river, by telling him that was not the way things were done on the Dee!
By then end of the week, black market prices for sleeping tablets were up in the 10s of dollars and my medical companion could have subsidised his next years trip if so minded. Given the serious depletion of world Balvennie supplies that was pretty surprising.
The other great joy of the trip was the team we fished with; the Spaniards were game for anything, the 2 lads from Iceland great company and brilliant fly tyers, and the Deeside mafia always on good from. There was also no problem with the rods who came to the river unattached; everyone mucked in and the craic in the camp at night was an important part of the enjoyment.
Disappointments; possibly the quality of the fish. I didn't expect to catch sub 5lb grilse, (one third of my catch)., there was lots of walking and hence less fishing on some beats (and then we had to rush through great looking pools in the last hour before the choppers came in) and again losing my tackle on route. (Every party that goes to the Kola seems to lose some tackle).
The plus side of it far outweighed the minor gripes, however, and we can thoroughly recommend the Northern rivers company if anyone wants to give it a crack.
tight lines, Phil

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Heebob

· #46 · Sep 15, 2008

drphilgood said:
I can't let the Caledonian junior members of the squad have all the fun here, so think you need to have some balance from south of the border. This was my first Kola trip, too, and have to say that it has only whetted the appetite for more. The fishing was certainly not for the faint hearted, nor the hiking over the hills. Both Paul and I had lost 6lbs weight by return despite the excellence of the food.
Will attach one or two additional snaps, (when I work out how to do it or get advice from Splash), including our very close encounter with the brown bears. When you see the speed they move as the helicopter approaches, you realise that your only hope in a difficult situation would be to throw yourself in and hope the river gets you before the bears.
The other thing that really impressed was the Russian approach to poachers; they shoot them! We had several encounters with Speznatz special forces snipers deployed over the catchment and it was a pretty good reason to stick close to your guide.
Splash distinguished himself by not falling in once, amply made up for by Kenny falling in most days.
The organisation of the camp was fantastic. I was one of the unlucky duo whose luggage failed to arrive at Murmansk, and I would not wish that on anyone, especially having to deal with the miserable buggers at the airport on the return trip. Everyone said that Murmansk airport was much improved in the last few years, well it must have been a complete hell hole before then, because it is without doubt the most awful place I have ever visited.
Greenbanks has skilfully managed to avoid mentioning how he wimped out of the overnight camping on the Litza; personally would have jumped at the chance of an overnight tent when we had a ground frost the next morning. He also managed to spend most of the week upsetting his man, the head guide on the river, by telling him that was not the way things were done on the Dee!
By then end of the week, black market prices for sleeping tablets were up in the 10s of dollars and my medical companion could have subsidised his next years trip if so minded. Given the serious depletion of world Balvennie supplies that was pretty surprising.
The other great joy of the trip was the team we fished with; the Spaniards were game for anything, the 2 lads from Iceland great company and brilliant fly tyers, and the Deeside mafia always on good from. There was also no problem with the rods who came to the river unattached; everyone mucked in and the craic in the camp at night was an important part of the enjoyment.
Disappointments; possibly the quality of the fish. I didn't expect to catch sub 5lb grilse, (one third of my catch)., there was lots of walking and hence less fishing on some beats (and then we had to rush through great looking pools in the last hour before the choppers came in) and again losing my tackle on route. (Every party that goes to the Kola seems to lose some tackle).
The plus side of it far outweighed the minor gripes, however, and we can thoroughly recommend the Northern rivers company if anyone wants to give it a crack.
tight lines, Phil

Glad to hear my bro Ken is still going swimming fully clothed on a regular basis - Normally he likes to do this whilst playing a fish - is this still the case?

Heebob

· #47 · Sep 15, 2008

[email protected] said:
David

Wading with aquastealth soles on weed covered boulders is akin to walking on sweaty footballers heads.You are guaranteed to do a Drogba or Ronaldo every time. the guide had a good laugh though and told me so later in the week when i showed him the studs I screwed into by boots that Paul kindly provided.I still have a bruise on my shin from the many tumbles I took.However I never found out about the dead lemming that was seen suspended by the neck from a bush, hung by fluorocarbon.Another local guide foible?They had a few for sure.

re the suspended Lemming - Was that one of the party trying a new type of 'surface lure'

Greenalert

· #48 · Sep 15, 2008 (Edited)

drphilgood said:
The other thing that really impressed was the Russian approach to poachers; they shoot them! We had several encounters with Speznatz special forces snipers deployed over the catchment and it was a pretty good reason to stick close to your guide.

Is that right, the Speznatz are actually up there?

drphilgood

· #49 · Sep 15, 2008

kharlovka week 36

yes, and armed to the teeth with an AK-47 and a sniper rifle across their back. Peter Power in his little introductory talk, apologised that they had actually shot one dead some years ago. I suspect the remoteness of the kharlovka system, (as compared to the fairly heavy poaching on kola,umba and varzuga) means that its pretty unlikely to get poachers that far out into the tundra, but its certainly a hell of a disincentive to risk it if you know there's a man with a rifle in the watch towers on top of the hills!

Kenny is already working on a similar system for the Dee next year!

Phil

splash

Discussion Starter · #50 · Sep 16, 2008

Someone in the camp told me that they picked up one old fellow fishing on the rivers a couple of years ago. It seems he was a university professor and was a tad eccentric. He must have been dedicated to his sport though as he had walked from Murmansk to get to the rivers

Apparently the camp had to take him in, feed him and fly him back !

Fruin

· #51 · Sep 16, 2008

Excellent collective report.
I'm not a bit jealous... I'm not, I'm not, I'm not...
well just a wee bit then

munro

· #52 · Sep 21, 2008

Fruin said:
Excellent collective report.
I'm not a bit jealous... I'm not, I'm not, I'm not...
well just a wee bit then

count your blessings

what was wrong with your malt and smoked salmon,and the venue,you dont need to go elswhere fruin,think almost all the ingredients are there for superb adventure
must been ma company

pm me if you can in one word with what the adventure lacked,
now how jelous could some people be about that adventure

splash

Discussion Starter · #53 · Oct 3, 2008

Aye good to see that the Park Kenny struck in the last week

I have a nice pic of a Mar Lodge, Hordur kindly gave me on our trip which I will try to post at some point

greenbanks

· #54 · Nov 22, 2008

3

Kharlovka (Murmansk region) Forecast
update
Forecast updated on:
21/11/2008 - 6:00 MSK Fri 21/11 Sat 22/11 Sun 23/11 Mon 24/11 Tue 25/11 Wed 26/11 Thu 27/11
High temperature -4 °C -4 °C -2 °C -2 °C -2 °C -5 °C -1 °C
Low temperature -6 °C -9 °C -6 °C -3 °C -7 °C -11 °C -9 °C
Pressure (at H = 0 m) 736 mm 748 mm 753 mm 747 mm 749 mm 747 mm 742 mm
Wind 3 m/s (S) 3 m/s (SE) 10 m/s (SE) 10 m/s (SE) 1 m/s (SW) 5 m/s (SW) 6 m/s (S)
Sky conditions
Precipitation
(for registered
users only)
Updated on:
22/11/2008
6:00 MSK

ALMOST AS COLD AS ABERDEEN!!!!

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Springer

· #55 · Nov 22, 2008

greenbanks said:

Very Eastern Block, rough looking place that Murmansk, fancy having to live there.

Is the guy huddling along in the street in the bottom picture off to join the line for bread?

silverleapers

· #56 · Dec 5, 2008

Cracking thread as you UK folk say...

greenbanks

· #57 · Mar 6, 2009

I have received this e-mail today with an invitation which ni thought I should publicise on the forum for those interested in these Northern rivers and the fishings.

The ASR team of Justin McCarthy and Gordon Sim will be hosting two reception evenings in the North of Scotland later this month. They will be showing a slide and film show and answering questions on all aspects of the operation. Please come along and bring a like-minded friend; we will be providing a buffet supper with wine and are looking forward to meeting some familiar faces together with those eager to discover the special magic of The Atlantic Salmon Reserve.

Wednesday 18th March 2009 from 1930hrs at "The Beechwood Suite", Aberdeen Hilton Treetops Hotel, 161 Springfield Road, Aberdeen AB15 7AQ

Thursday 19th March 2009 from 1930hrs at "The Culloden Suite", Drumossie Hotel, Old Perth Road, Inverness IV2 5BE

Please R.S.V.P either by telephone 01865 883063 or email [email protected]

Ruth Chester
Office Manager
Northern Rivers Company
Eynsham Mill
OXFORD OX29 4EJ
United Kingdom
http://www.kharlovka.com

Tel: +44 (0)1865 883063
Fax: +44 (0)1865 731619

FOR CURRENCY CONVERSION SEE http://www.bloomberg.com/markets/currencies/fxc.html

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greenbanks

· #58 · Apr 4, 2009

I have heard that there are one or two really good spots available this year for the Atlantic Reserve Rivers and I would really love to be able to jump on a plane and head out again to visit this amazing country and see these truly wild and majestic salmon rivers.Alas I am probably unable to venture forth this year which really makes me quite disappointed. I spoke to Gordon Sim and Justin McCarthy who are the movers and shakers who run the show there and they told me what is still available.

I would recommend anyone thinking about going to visit that location to encounter these truly wild fish on riverbanks inhabited with Lemmings,Bears,Wolverines and all sorts of truly wild animals to get in touch with these guys.They will probably be able to offer you something that will knock your socks off.I know for sure when you hook a 20 lb plus lunker in one of their streams you will wonder how hard and savage can a fight with a salmon really get. Some of the takes to the fly are quite astonishing and make you say."Wow it wanted that alright"

This is a fishermans dream, and for determined and adventurous anglers who want to see these frontiers before the opportunity of a lifetime disappears, there has never been a better time than are there right now.Tight lines and good luck for those who get in touch with the lads You will be glad you did for sure.

Just 1 of 18 I had during my week there-truly wild and majestic, and a lover of the Park shrimp fly-the fabled Russian Osenka Salmon caught in the fall.

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greenbanks

· #59 · Apr 5, 2009 (Edited)

Nice little film about the area-no lemmings mind or Green eyed drunken monsters .

Black Boar

· #60 · Apr 5, 2009 (Edited)

oh please....

I went in 2004... I didnt see a bear, or lemming or wolverine or many salmon to be honest... maybe sometimes the truth is better told than MORE SPIN!!!! we had 60 for the week 12 rods. most were 3 lb grilse. if the conditions are good its good but if you get hight pressure and low water you might as well be in scotland

41 - 60 of 65 Posts

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