This arrived today, will try out some loops. Certainly on the lighter (thinner) side but will do for loops on T stuff sink tips etc.Anyone tried this braid for making braided loops?
HOLLOW BRAIDED BACKING LINE - 75mts / 30lb B.S. - VARIOUS COLOURS | eBay
Unfortunately the change of access policy with the (previously free) photobucket to a subscription model has broken many a useful forum resource !I can't see the photos, and the link to the needles dont work.
If it's a needle for making loops that's needed, there's a 2" long darning needle, in the needle multi packs, that works fine.
I,d appreciate a look at the loop if possible?
When I can do it I prefer braided loops,especially on shooting heads, to be built in such a way that the end of the fly line is up against the braided loop. This method is a bit tricky to do but it gives a neat finish and is non-hinging.
This is what you need: some 50 lbs braided mono such as Gudebrod for up to 9/10 shooting heads or Fordham & Wakefield's for larger shooting heads, and a splicing needle.
The photo shows a Cortland splicing needle designed to be used with braided Dacron (it's the larger of the two sizes available). A similar tool is used by coarse anglers to set up hair rigs. Fordham & Wakefield's braided mono is more readily available and is easier to work with, but is inclined to unravel at the cut end.
First step:insert the end of the fly line into the braided mono for about an inch (2.5 cm) and wrap a narrow piece of sticky tape around the cut end to stop it unravelling.
Step two: Insert the splicing needle down the braided mono back toward the tip of the fly line. Note: do not cut off a length of braided mono but rather insert the needle in the standing part about three inches (7.5 cm) up the standing part of the braided mono.
Step three: bring the crochet hook end of the splicing needle out through the wall of the braided mono about an inch (2.5 cm) from the tip of the fly and close the gate of the crochet hook around the braided mono as closely as possible to the point where the hook exits the braided mono.
Step four: slide and pull the standing part of the braided mono down the splicing needle, over the closed hook and unto the tip of the fly line. In this photo you will notice the tag of sticky tape over the cut end of the mono. Trim the sticky tape tag but otherwise leave it in place.
Step five: carefully remove the splicing needle and substitute a stronger needle or other metal bar against which you can put more pressure.
Final steps: First adjust the size of your braided mono loop by pulling and feeding more braid over the fly line. Needle knot the end of the braided mono away from the fly line tip.
Put a dot of UV acquasure or the like over the needle knot and at junction of the loop and the fly line tip. Use acquasure for preference as unlike super glue it remains flexible.
Note that it is only now that one cuts off the balance of the braided mono.
The result is a braided loop which is double-walled and where the tip of the fly line is tight up against the loop.
It take a little practise to get the loop right but I think it's worth the effort?
I would have used 50Lbs for the back of the shooting head i.e. loop to loop to the running line, simply because the braid expands enough to accommodate the relatively thick head end.Is 50lb used for the tips/running line loops? I'm going to order some braid but im unsure what b.s 35lb or 50lb?