Shooting heads

Rennie

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If you're going to cut from a shooting head, well in the very first and most important instance be absolutely sure you NEED to be cutting, because once it's cut, you can't put it back on!.
So if you're absolutely sure you need to cut, well you cut from the back end every single time, and don't cut all at once, try Two smaller separate cuts-do it in stages, cut and try, and if needs be cut and try again.
Were I you before you get the scissors out I'd ask about on here 1st,what rod have you got and what size and make of head is it. £ to a p some one will have the same gear and just possible can give you the exact specifics you need before you start lobbing bits off and filling the waste bin!.
Exercise caution from the off, better than tears at bed time!.
Pedro.
 

mc andy

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If you're going to cut from a shooting head, well in the very first and most important instance be absolutely sure you NEED to be cutting, because once it's cut, you can't put it back on!.
So if you're absolutely sure you need to cut, well you cut from the back end every single time, and don't cut all at once, try Two smaller separate cuts-do it in stages, cut and try, and if needs be cut and try again.
Were I you before you get the scissors out I'd ask about on here 1st,what rod have you got and what size and make of head is it. £ to a p some one will have the same gear and just possible can give you the exact specifics you need before you start lobbing bits off and filling the waste bin!.
Exercise caution from the off, better than tears at bed time!.
Pedro.
Depends what your trying to achieve? Losing a fine tip to help turn over for a tip like a afs. Then the front.

If to adjust the weight? Then the rear
 

Gibbo

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If its a ready made head then I would not cut anything of it. I would also recommend getting one size more than the rod states. So for a 10# rod get an 11# head. If making your own from a DT line cut three feet of the front before you try it on the rod. Again I would opt for one line size higher than the rod. if its for trout you could almost cut exactly 30ft. I have seen numerous "experts" say they can airialise 35ft heads etc. But have never met one who could cast it any further than a 30ft head. For salmon it will depend on rod length and line size usually between 36 -45 ft. For running line you can get the posh stuff to match the line or you could get something like 30lb Amnesia green/yellow for around £5 per 100m. It will cast further if that is the end objective.
 

Richardgw

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Depends what your trying to achieve? Losing a fine tip to help turn over for a tip like a afs. Then the front.

If to adjust the weight? Then the rear

Totally agree.

In the last few days I cut 8ft (in two instalments with testing between) off the front of a John Norris integrated shooting head. The objective was to have a longer integrated head that will handle 15ft/10 gram sink tips a bit like a Rio Short Spey at 20% of the price.

Cut to 31ft/36 grams, extensive testing has confirmed it does exactly what I wanted as it handles any tip up to 18ft/12 grams of sink 3 and deals with 10ft or T14 and a large tube with authority. All this for/on a Guideline 14ft 9 inch AWM 10/11.
 

fishmantogo

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Many thanks. I will take of some 5' from front and try it out . I like heads about 20' max. I find shorter heads work better on 11'/ 12' rods.🦈
 

richard

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If the object of the exercise is to reduce the weight of the head to suit a rod, normal practice would be to cut back the rear of the head in increments and test and or weigh each time until desired effect is achieved. I wouldn't normally cut back the front unless it was to aid turnover of heavy polys or lures, or to achieve what Richardgw was after which I assume is not what you are trying to do?
Richard
 

fishmantogo

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No not really I can cast the line but it's 30' I prefer a head of 20'. It's s case of cutting or exchange for a 20' head. Thanks
 
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