First build on a bloke 12’6 blank

The flying Scotsman

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No idea why that would be, I`ve used it on thousands of guide wraps, never had any problems. It is its purpose` in life, colour preserver and thread sealer. All sorts of old wifes tales around it.
I got some for my first build and was told to throw it away to f@#$
Never needed it tbh metallic thread doesn't need it
 

Bonito

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I got some for my first build and was told to throw it away to f@#$
Never needed it tbh metallic thread doesn't need it
Each to their own I suppose. Use a nylon thread and the results will be instant if you don`t CP it, darken down so much as to be a total loss of the intended colour. As to metallic thread for holding guides, OK. Try the attached pics using metallics without CP, they will move and slide about all over the place. CP simply seals them and holds them fast.
P1010006.JPG
P1120819 - Copy.JPG
 
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Lewis.Chessman

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I got some for my first build and was told to throw it away to f@#$
Never needed it tbh metallic thread doesn't need it
Were you given an actual reason as to why you should chuck it, TfS? There must be some reason your 'tutor' didn't approve?

Sure, no need on metallic thread but if you like the original nylon/silk thread colour and want to use it ..... do you buy an even lighter shade thread and hope it darkens to what you want. Surely simpler to get out the cp?
 

The flying Scotsman

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Were you given an actual reason as to why you should chuck it, TfS? There must be some reason your 'tutor' didn't approve?

Sure, no need on metallic thread but if you like the original nylon/silk thread colour and want to use it ..... do you buy an even lighter shade thread and hope it darkens to what you want. Surely simpler to get out the cp?
I was advised not to use it on the guides i think because he thought you lost strength in the epoxy finish.
I use ncp thread which doesn't neep cp and metallic on the ferrules and maybe just a band on the guides but not to secure it.
 

Lewis.Chessman

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I'm pretty sure one of mine came with a Striper's co-polymer kit (epoxy, stirrers, pots, etc.) from eBay. It's a thin, whitish liquid, easily applied either to a wrap or to lengths of a secondary thread for short turns into the main wrap. I let them dry then whip them in three or four turns before catching under the main thread and continuing on. It was straight forward to apply. On full wraps I would use two coats to ensure total, uniform coverage and an even final result in tone.

@TfS: Thanks. An interesting answer. I've not heard of it weakening a wrap before, I'll have a Google, see if it's a common conception.
It's not something I've used much and, presuming your man is correct, I can't imagine it would drastically affect the integrity if only used on a secondary guide wrap.
Like you though, I'm currently more in a minimalist vein and only adding metal to the ferrule and butt wraps, maybe the tip too, in the hope it aids visibility in low light. Given my declining near-vision though, I doubt it'll help! ;)
 

Bonito

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Anyone recommend a CP?
Scroll down to Flexcoat products, everything you need from CP to resins to brushes etc etc etc, been using F/coat 25 years, I tend to ignore the latest super dooper stuff as they are just a copy of the original. Problems with such and such a resin or whatever are normally pilot error. A lot of the old wifes tales about CP weakening a wrap date back years and was basically started when folk were using PVA (as it looked the same) You can use PVA but water it down 50/50 and then a couple of coats minimum. Use PVA straight and it will crack with flexing. Nothing to weaken using CP, the thread hold the guides on. CP and resin are simply a finish. Other mistake many make is thinking that the finish resin acts as an adhesive between thread and blank. It does to a certain extent but it is polymer casting resin designed to take a certain shape, it is not an adhesive. The adhesive (similar to Araldite) is an epoxy, not a polymer. I`ve built a few test rods in the past for saltwater boat use and put nothing over the thread except two coats of CP in case I had to strip and re-position guides. Rods were still going strong after a season of good use and not a movement on the guides.

 
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DC

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Rod Turner arrived today and I’ve also bought an 11’3” bloke switch blank for later in the season.....I can see this getting expensive 😂
out of interest, what switch rod weight did you go for ?, I see he has a 7/8 and 8/9 on ebay ?

This rod building stuff is a hobby in itself :)
 

Bennachie

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I went for the 8/9 as I’ve already a short shooting head to suit and I thought it would suit some of the waters I fish a little better 👍
Having borrowed and fished with the Bloke 11'3" 8/9 switch when up on the Alness a few seasons past, I am inspired to have a go and build my own.
Mick, other than your turning jig, what else is required? Presumably the kit from Mick comes with everything that is required?
Thanks in advance.
Rob
 

Mick_G

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Having borrowed and fished with the Bloke 11'3" 8/9 switch when up on the Alness a few seasons past, I am inspired to have a go and build my own.
Mick, other than your turning jig, what else is required? Presumably the kit from Mick comes with everything that is required?
Thanks in advance.
Rob
The kit comes with everything needed, then I built a rod building jig with a few bits of wood and used a fly tying bobbin as shown in micks YouTube demo.

You’ll need consumables also like masking tape, isopropyl alcohol, mixing pots etc.
I found it quite straight forward and therapeutic 👍
 
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