Attaching Loops to Shooting Heads

Springer

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Jock,

Do you know how much those particular straighteners cost :eek:

I do because I got plastic on Mrs Springers pair and she made me buy her a replacement set...........................be careful, be very careful.:eek:
 

Jock

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They work just fine. No sign of PVC on ceramic etc. You probably added extra plastic deliberately so you could get a pair all to yourself.....Now I know why you have straight hair:D
 

albyn73

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Thanks for your kind comments, Phil :)

I like both knots and I'm sure both are equally strong, certainly they're both strong enough. I just like the idea of knowing for sure the braided loop has no possiblity of sliding off and the needle knot, by going through both braid and line, does this.

I guess it's like most things in angling - we use what we have confidence in and what's worked in the past.

No criticism intended - none taken :) It's good to share experiences/thoughts - it's how we all improve, I suppose :cool:

Sloggi, I used something to the same effect, only after i had stripped the plastic off and when making the loop out of the inner core i would then thread the core into a needle and stitch it back on itself twice and forming a loop then superglue where the core had come through and then whip it and varnish. the loop was then dipped in Poly vynil sealant to stiffen it up and prevent any water getting under the plastic. i would love to do a SBS on it, but one thought i had about the heavy mono, would not be easier if you were doing the same thing but using Kevlar thread or even Braid for a better and neater knot? just my thoughts instead of the mono. J.:)
 

albyn73

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lastcast, what about cable strippers instead of pliers, it maybe a bit easier than that method?:)
 

lastcast

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alby73
i havent tried wire strippers but they might be ok for stripping an inch or two off the front of your line but to do the rear you need to take out a section and to be honest it only takes a minute once you get the hange of it
i am going to do a full sbs on it and go into more detail than the pics that are posted
hopefully tomorrow night

lastcast
 

Jock

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The ghd works. Here is some loop .032" running line with a large loop to allow head to be fed through it, made this way. No need to have as much weld as shown in this pic. which is around 3cm. 1cm will give a secure hold.
 
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roeangler

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Ddc Connect

Has anyone tried to strip the coating of a inter ddc connect head it seems to have a very very tough coating would it be easier with acetone or something similar rather than pliers
 

flopandstop

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DDC Connect

I do it with a pair of wire cutting pliers, side cutters or even a pair pliers designed to take the insulation off of wire. The key is to take small amounts of fly line at one time.
 

martin

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DDC Connect

Finally purchased one of these yesterday was attempting to put loops on last nite, what a struggle!!!
The core of this line seem to be stuck to the core it just doesnt slide of, if i try and pull the core backwards to rip through the coating it just snaps!

Any ideas??
 

munro

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I slide on salmon braided loop xl, then two needle knots with 6lbs nylon one near end of braid nearest you pull both tag ends of knot hard while pulling loop of braid in direction fish would pull ,other 1/2 way down repeat pulling, trim fray before first nail knot,whip both knots with tying thread, smear aquqsure in to whippings with moist finger,then gently apply some heat with hair dryer to smooth aquasure & give coating of line slight tack roll /smooth with fingers,braid beds into line coating,leave 24 hrs, then one more coat of a/sure, smothed not as much hair dryer this time,only enough to work a/sure,leave 24 hrs
 

martin

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I slide on salmon braided loop xl, then two needle knots with 6lbs nylon one near end of braid nearest you pull both tag ends of knot hard while pulling loop of braid in direction fish would pull ,other 1/2 way down repeat pulling, trim fray before first nail knot,whip both knots with tying thread, smear aquqsure in to whippings with moist finger,then gently apply some heat with hair dryer to smooth aquasure & give coating of line slight tack roll /smooth with fingers,braid beds into line coating,leave 24 hrs, then one more coat of a/sure, smothed not as much hair dryer this time,only enough to work a/sure,leave 24 hrs

Cheers was just a problem getting a braided loop big enough!!
 

charlieH

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If you get hold of some 50lb braid, you should be able to make your own double wall braided loops (like the Moser ones) which will still fit onto the fattest of lines.
 

wilbert

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I have some 50lb gudbrod braid and it has a much smaller internal diameter than the roman moser jumbo loops. It wont fit over rear end of the inter and floating shooting heads but its great for making the front loops on all lines. Can anyone recommend some 50 lb braid that has a large enough internal diameter for making "jumbo" loops?
 

charlieH

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I was given a few yards of braid by one of the guys in Farlows a couple of years ago, and this is what I use if I have to go down the braided loop road (i.e. if the line has a mono core - with a braided core I strip off the coating and make the loop from the core itself). Don't know what brand it is, but it came off a big spool that they had in the shop to make up loops. You could perhaps call them and ask what it is. Maybe it's more than 50lbs, but I seem to remember that's what he said it was.
 

darren lewis

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Roman Moser do some jumbo loops which will fit on the very thickest lines.

Alas they don't fit over some floating shooting head rear sections, I've tried and failed to fit them quite a few times, they are better than most out there though.

The DDS lines are a swine, the core is REALLY well connected to the coating. I've ended up using acetone to strip an inch at a time, using a very sharp razor blade to create a starting point 1" back by stripping away some of the coating with VERY shallow slices. When I had 4" stripped, line it with braided backing to help reinforce it, whip 1cm back on itself where the core starts to get exposed to create a loop, glue, then coat with UV knot sense. Did loads of these for customers when I worked for Sportfish, and for myself, and never had any problems.

This is the official method as recommended to me by Lief Stavmo of Guideline, and he knows a thing or two about 'em.
 
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Salmon Bob

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Instead of pulling the line apart with pliers i just dip a few inches of fly line into nail varnish remover it comes off easily
 

lastcast

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Cortland do 50lb braid that fits over the rear of the heads no problem
Glasgow Field Sports has it in stock;)

lc
 

mournegold

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Really like the look of flyman's method - it looks almost factory finished! I've used the shrink tubing when making up pennel rigs and i heat it up with the steam from a boiling kettle. I was just wondering if that would be warm enough to also give the same finish without the risk of over heating the fly line?
 
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