Attaching Loops to Shooting Heads

Sloggi

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Having been asked by a few members, here are a few pix of how I fix loops to shooting heads. I hope others will post info/pix on how they do this too.

I use a slight variation of the Needle Knot - here is the knot described by Falkus



Take some leader material - here I've used 20lb Maxima - and thread it through a needle.



Slide a loop onto line. If using a shop-bought loop, remove the plastic sleeve. Push the threaded needle through braid/line



Follow the steps in photo one. Just forget that you've pushed the needle through the line instead of up the line. You'll end up with something messy like this...



...but don't worry. By gently pulling both ends of Maxima the turns will sit closely together. Make this knot twice. Once would suffice, but twice makes me feel more confident. Trim both ends leaving 1cm of Maxima.



Superglue both knots



Bind both knots with tying thread making sure to cover the two ends of Maxima. Again, glue both



It'll look something like this



Finally, cover both knots with Aquasure - this will protect the knot and give a smoother feel when brining the line through your rod rings.



When test casting, only knot once so it's easier to undo during the cutting/testing process. This connection is strong and your leader will break first :eek:
 

Waddington

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Hi Sloggi,

Looks like an excellent neat connection to me, and thank you for taking the trouble to show it in such a clear step by step. I have no experience of using shootong heads for salmon, but when fitting braided loops to a fly line, I have always used the same method as you describe but use the nail knot rather than the needle. No criticism intended at all but I am interested to know if you consider your method stronger or whether it really does not matter. I believe you were responsible for the shooting heads salmon article in Januarys T&S, and I would like to say that it was an informative and thoroughly enjoyable read.

All the Best
Phil
 
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Sloggi

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No criticism intended at all but I am interested to know if you consider your method stronger or whether it really does not matter

Thanks for your kind comments, Phil :)

I like both knots and I'm sure both are equally strong, certainly they're both strong enough. I just like the idea of knowing for sure the braided loop has no possiblity of sliding off and the needle knot, by going through both braid and line, does this.

I guess it's like most things in angling - we use what we have confidence in and what's worked in the past.

No criticism intended - none taken :) It's good to share experiences/thoughts - it's how we all improve, I suppose :cool:
 

Sloggi

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Very neat finnish (no pun intended :))

I met an Italian man last seaon who did something very similar - interesting guy and had lots of theories on attaching shooting heads in varying densities.
 

lastcast

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i fished with two FINNISH guys on the Gaula that used the same method of doubling the core back inside the line it makes a neat job:cool:.I have also tried various loops using the core of the line they are good but tend to wear.:(
I have started using shrink tube and braid to do the loops on all my shooting heads i will get FLYMAN to post a sbs


lastcast
 

lastcast

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I am now onto season two and havent had a single bit of wear:D
Sloggi
The only downside like like your method is the time it takes to set up.But it it is definatly worth the effort as you only have to do it once:D
on the the front of the line i just double it through the shrink tube and heat it with a lighter which fuses it together.This means that i dont have a horrible braided loop on the end of my line
I wouldnt say this is the best method but it works for me;)

lastcast
 

flyman

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just in case you missed it ,in the 2nd photo 50lb braid is placed over the exposed core before doubling, then the heatshrink is put in place.;)

flyman
 

macd

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ingeneous flyman, thanks for sharing that.

how do remove the fly line coating with out making an arse of it? I am used to removing the coating usually by dipping it in thinner, but from the end of the line not a section.
 

flyman

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macd ,thanks, but i only have the photos.:eek: lastcast is the man that knows the technique.think he'll be on to give you an answer.:cool:

flyman
 
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jimthefish

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how durable is the shrink tube? Any risk of it splitting?

The heat shrink tubing is only there to protect the line while the flame is being applied. Once the whole thing has cooled by rolling it between wetted fingers, the heat shrunk tubing is peeled off in its entirety.
Easy to get it wrong by the way and apply too much heat resulting in a weak link so a strong pull to test your loop is advisable.
Method becomes easier with practice. When you get it right it is very professional:)

It was lastcast who showed me the method. He might add one or two pearls to the thread.
 

macd

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thanks for putting me right jim-my mistake

look forward to lastcast's pearls
 

Bogyoch

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ingeneous flyman, thanks for sharing that.

how do remove the fly line coating with out making an arse of it? I am used to removing the coating usually by dipping it in thinner, but from the end of the line not a section.


I, too, would be interested to know how the coating is stripped away in a section as neat as that.
 

lastcast

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Stripping coating to expose the core is straight foward but takes a bit of practise.You will need a pair of needle nose pliers the LEATHERMAN TOOL is ideal

first grab the side of the line with the pliers



now pull and you should take a bit out of the line (might take a few goes)



once you have done this grab the line from the other side and pull again.
The line will stretch and then come away from the core



once you have the amount of core you want exposed double the line back and cut the waste coating away



all done lastcast

 

Jock

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ghd

Now with the start of the season approaching for many of us and with Valentines day not being far away, why do you buy your loved one these:



:)

After all they are excellent for this:



This shows them being used to produce a welded loop in the front taper of 10F spey line. I use braid for this which I keep on rather than cut off as these tips are far finer than the rear end of a shooting head.

The ghds allow far better temp control. They don't melt the nylon braid but the line melts and fuses into the braid.

The final result is very flexible and strong. You can do it without the braid and use the heat shrink which you remove for these finer tips...but only with certain lines.



Think of all the brownie points to go fishing as well as welded loops:D

Cheers,

Jock
 
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