Any roofers on?

dave_n

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I have a lean to rosemary tiled roof on the kitchen...approx 10ft long, 3ft high
Its fairly shallow - maybe 30 degrees and has been redone last year by my a local roofer who replaced the tiles, added new batons, new DPM and flashing.

Up to now its been fine but we have been battered by westerly winds the past couple of days and consequently the rain has been coming in the kitchen.
I cut a hole in the kitchen ceiling as the water damage was pretty bad so I could take a look and stop it spreading.

The water is coming in on a 2 foot section of the roof and the water appears to be trickling down the exterior cavity wall on both sides.
The DPM is bone dry throughout as is the rest of the roof apart from this one section.

I'm thinking its possibly rain being driven under the flashing but can't figure out why it would be only in one section.
I'd go back to the lad who fixed it but he's in a bad way with covid.

I've done the usual googling about lead sealants etc but would welcome some real advice

I got up on the roof this morning and lifted the lead flashing a couple of mm and water was released from under the flashing

Any advice would be most welcome...

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Slaneysider

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Too low a pitch Pal, doesn't look 40 degrees of a pitch, Capillary action and wind driven rain is driving the water back up along the tiles, you can get a low pitched roof tile and a continuous dry verge for the outside, the lead looks to be fine enough but might not work if you use the low pitch roof tiles you might have to rise the lead flashing and apron up to the next row of bricks. https://www.forticrete.co.uk/products/concrete-roof-tiles/centurion
 

Woodbank

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You will need to replace the lead with at least a 150 mil upstand although your saying it’s 30 degrees pitch it certainly doesn’t look it that pitch would be enough the breathable felt should be sufficient even on a low pitch to keep it dry as it’s a new roof looking at were the water is pooling would say it is more likely to be rain driving into the unpointed brickwork above?
 

mc andy

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Not a roofer mate, had a persisting problem on my extension roof that I spent hrs pumping silicon in every conceivable corner and flashing. Anyway I had a tiny crack on the render that I would never of thought would let water in, once filled problem sorted.
Screenshot_20201103_181848.jpg


But this tiny bit of render missing could be the problem? if not? worth trying anyway.

Cheers andy
 

The flying Scotsman

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I'm a roofer/joiner and I'm with slaneysider theres not enough of a pitch. Seen this before wind driven rain and anticappillary action will let the rain up and under your flashing aswell as tiles and it will find the lowest point to come out. If it was my house I would remove the tiles and fit a single neat piece of rubber membrane up and under existing flashing with nice tims down either side. Would be your cheapest option also. I would also re point bricks.
I'm a registered fitter for firestone rubber cover single ply membrane. It lasts for over 50 years and looks good. Heres a dormer I fitted yesterday.
20201102_150643.jpg
 

nickolas

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As Dave says should really have a cavity tray, also the lead flashing ideally should go up to and cover the next course of brick +should go further beyond the present lead flashing and splay at approx 30-45 degree at either end of the roof.
 

dave_n

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I'm a roofer/joiner and I'm with slaneysider theres not enough of a pitch. Seen this before wind driven rain and anticappillary action will let the rain up and under your flashing aswell as tiles and it will find the lowest point to come out. If it was my house I would remove the tiles and fit a single neat piece of rubber membrane up and under existing flashing with nice tims down either side. Would be your cheapest option also. I would also re point bricks.
I'm a registered fitter for firestone rubber cover single ply membrane. It lasts for over 50 years and looks good. Heres a dormer I fitted yesterday. View attachment 52028
yeah I have a firestone flat garage roof which is brilliant.....I'm loathed to replace this little roof as it's pretty much brand new....it would be nice to save it rather than putting it down :)
 

Grassy_Knollington

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Assuming the problem is water driving up under the flashing and capillary action.....

Could Dave not peel back the flashing from the leading edge, apply some water cut off mastic, then fold the flashing back down over the cut off mastic before following up with some Lap Sealant on the outer edge of the flashing?

Not the neatest solution, but maybe the quickest & cheapest.
 

tadpole

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Im a joiner and looking at your picture could have gone up another brick at least also I would fix that brick ten courses up rain could be getting in there
aswell (y)
 

tealblue

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What's wrong with getting builder who done the job in first place back to look at it.
 

marty31

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A poor job from day one! Probably a failed cavity tray not fitted properly, shallow pitch, lead not high enough or joint sealed with "lead mate" nothing much right with it to be honest.
 

cayofisher

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Leadwork upstand well short looking at pictures even another course won’t be enough go the one above tighten and straighten the bond up on the tiles repoint the Course above the lead check the headlap with respect its a BUM tiling job??
 

Essouth

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Oh man, that is not good, not at all. Just like Slaneysider said, that does not look anywhere near like 40 degrees of a pitch, not at all. You will need to at least replace the lead with at least a 150 mil upstand. Because of the rain the water is going back and that is why you are facing this issue. I can recommend you the services of https://city2surfroofing.com.au/roof-repairs-sydney/ as they are the best specialists in this domain. They helped me a lot back when I decided to renovate my house.
 
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