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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    North Tyne
    Posts
    62

    Default Eye measuring and synchronous Moter help!

    Brought my self a sage method blank to build but the kit has not come with a guide for measuring out the rod eyes, would it be a safe bet to use the old sage FLI of the same length to use as a guide or would the blank be tuned for having a different pattern?
    Also I have brought a synchronous Moter to use for drying the varnish but no idea of how to wire it up as it's AC current any tips would be greatly appreciated or ideas for building something to keep the rod turning so the varnish drys with out spending stupid money on a purpose made unit.
    Cheers,mat

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Aberdeen
    Posts
    4,839

    Default

    Sage should have a spacing guide for that blank, so check their website.

    My drying motor was bought on ebay from the states. Off the top of my head it's about 8 rpm.

    Never had any problem with it drying the epoxy even.
    ..........so many flies, so little time!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    North Tyne
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Cheers Westie , I'll check out sages site.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Uddingston
    Posts
    339

    Default

    Should get the info you need here :- Rod Building - Sage Fly Fish

    If they have sent you a kit with light wire guides I`d suggest binning them and using the HD wire guides. Weight difference on the rod will be much the same as raindrops on it after a shower. I spend a good part of my life replacing those light wire guides total pains of things
    Last edited by Bonito; 31-12-2016 at 02:48 PM.

  5. #5

    Default

    Never bothered with a motorised device for drying the varnish.
    Just get an old cardboard box an cut two vee shapes out of the sides.
    The rod sections sit nicely in there and just give them a turn by hand about once every two minutes when watching the TV.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    North Tyne
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Cheers for the link , thanks to westie I had already found it and I'm glad I didn't copy the fli as it was completely out!
    I think I will end up drying by hand, got a trip booked for the weekend !

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Uddingston
    Posts
    339

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mattytree View Post
    Cheers for the link , thanks to westie I had already found it and I'm glad I didn't copy the fli as it was completely out!
    I think I will end up drying by hand, got a trip booked for the weekend !
    All of these guide positions are generic and every blank is different they are simply a starting point. If drying by hand (no reason not to ) you will have to keep it turning for around 3-4 hrs depending on which resin, flex coat, rodsmith etc.

    Assuming it is resin you are using not varnish then the more heat the faster the two pack goes off, very roughly for every 10 degrees extra heat (over 60F) the drying time is cut by 1/4 to 1/2

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    North Tyne
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Cheers for the advice , will give it a go in the morning. May end up wrapping the whole lot again though ...already done that twice over last few days !

  9. #9

    Default

    Just get a stonefly rotary dryer makes things much easier. With guides it's worth spending the time filing the feet of even the smallest snakes flat and smoothing them with a flat fine metal file or dremel type tool. This also means the ends of the feet bend when the rod flexes and thus no chance of pushing through the blank under compression. To get the wraps even use a knitting needle and rub the wraps to ensure any spaces even out and then flame lightly with a lighter to remove any lint or loose strands before varnishing.

    Good luck

    Richard

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    North Tyne
    Posts
    62

    Default Flex coat !

    So I finished wrapping and with the last day off before going back to work I thought I would have plenty of time to put on the flex coat over a book and turning .. 7 hours later it's still tacky , room is about 65 and near a fire so it's hot enough , I'm going to leave for another 24 hours and if it's still tacky do a coat of clear varnish or would another thinner coat of flex coat be the answer ?
    I'm pretty sure I got the measurements and mixing spot on so I'm slightly concerned about putting more on with the drying time and more it being more tacky if a coat of clear varnish will do a quicker job with out reacting with it.

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