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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Rocky Mountains
    Posts
    384

    Default

    It looks like your splice broke right where they always do for me- the point where the core was separated having the inner line passed through it for the blind hole. I check my splices (try to break them so there is no question of failing out in the field) before beginning a new season. Some have survived extensive use over about 2 years (when the flyline is often shot anyway). Most make it about a year. My longest lasting glue splices have been from using Zap Flex.

    William

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    55 44.3N 003 43.4W
    Posts
    379

    Default

    Glad to hear that I might get a couple of years out of the splice William

    By the way, I am a big fan of your Lathe work

    Cheers
    Neil

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    I live in the Scottish Highlands
    Posts
    1,803

    Default Welded loops

    Very nice clear tutorial

    Has anyone break tested the welded loops the home made loops look to be the weakest area in the whole setup. I have seen welded loops come apart already which is why I ask.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    sale
    Posts
    1,738

    Default

    neil this should win post of the year very good

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    55 44.3N 003 43.4W
    Posts
    379

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by salmonshrimp View Post
    Very nice clear tutorial

    Has anyone break tested the welded loops the home made loops look to be the weakest area in the whole setup. I have seen welded loops come apart already which is why I ask.
    Hi Salmonshrimp,

    I can see where your concern is coming from. I myself used to think how can a join be secure that solely relies on Plastic to Plastic and not core to core.

    Well, a nail knot relies on the grip of a few millimetres onto the plastic and it holds. Also a braided sleeve whether using the tubing supplied or a whipped and glued connection again only relies on grip to the plastic.

    I know welded loops will not be 100% effective all of the time but after a bit of practise you can tell whether you have done a good weld or a bad one . If any weld looks dodgy then I will chop it off and start again, whether its one I have done myself or a factory fitted one.

    I give all my loops a good test before use but more importantly regularly check them whilst in use. Any sign of damage then it gets the chop and redone. In fact I carry the gear in my bag and with a bit of practise you can do it on the river bank in minutes.

    At the end of the day you should only use what method you have confidence in.

    Cheers
    Neil

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    I live in the Scottish Highlands
    Posts
    1,803

    Default

    No worries Neil

    As long as you are aware, I had noticed in the past that some lines weld better than others I guess it depends on the plastic used to coat the line.

    I suppose you could whip a small part of the weld for extra security if desired

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Penrith, Cumbria
    Posts
    538

    Default

    BZ, Could you just clarify which tip you use on the Iroda 70 as I have purchased one and I am not sure if the extra tip that comes with the torch is the hot air.
    Many thanks
    Gerry

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    55 44.3N 003 43.4W
    Posts
    379

    Default

    Hi Gerry,

    The set I have, came with a standard Soldering Iron plus 3 Additional Tips - one of which was a Hot Air Tip. I also purchased a Diffuser Tip (Click to View) that pushes onto the end of the Hot Air Tip.

    If purchasing just the Soldering Iron on its own you would need to buy a Hot Air Tip and a Diffuser Tip extra.

    Here is a picture that should help.


    You can adjust the temperature by using the little lever operated valve but also you can slide the Diffuser up and down the Tip.

    Cheers
    Neil

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Penrith, Cumbria
    Posts
    538

    Default

    Thanks very much for your advise.
    I have the diffuser but was unsure which tip was required, from the Iroda info it looks like an SO6 or Maplin ref NO6AQ ?

    Gerry
    Last edited by gerry atric; 09-03-2011 at 03:44 PM.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    55 44.3N 003 43.4W
    Posts
    379

    Default

    From the Iroda website (Click here to display) it looks like an S-07 Heat Blower and an S-30 Deflector or if you could get hold of one then a combined S-08 would be ideal.

    You can tell which one it is, as you can see a little bit of fine mesh gauze inside.

    I think the S-06 is a Blow Torch for soldering and will be way too hot.

    Hope this Helps

    Cheers
    Neil

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