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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Bucksburn, Aberdeen
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    239

    Default Splicing Lines - Needle Advice

    Looking for some advice. I recently bought a 39' shooting head line off this forum specifically to then cut to 33-34' for my 11'3" Graham's Grilse Special 8/9 and have cut approx. 6' off the back end of the head after cutting the integrated running line off.
    I now want to splice the head and running line back together and have watched a really good video on this very topic from Pacificflyfishers and it would work perfectly for my needs. BUT I can't get a needle to go far enough inside the rear of the shooting head so I'm stuck. It's getting the right needle I've tried sewing/darning needles without success, obviously these can't be too thick as they need to go up inside the shooting head without piercing the outer coating until they are around 1.5-2" up the line.
    I could obviously put braided loops on both ends but would rather avoid that as the splicing will be far smoother and avoid the "clunk" as the join goes through the tip ring of the rod.
    Hoping someone out there can help me out.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    up to ma tits in water on the ayr
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    3,479

    Default

    Have you tried heating needle with boiling water?who makes the head you bought as some are nylon core some are braid not sure if it would make a difference though,dont have any experience of splicing as loop to loop has always been my preferred option
    Id rather have something I don't need than need something I haven't got!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Swansea
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    Try heating the end of the fly line in near boiling water for a minute to soften it up & then lubricate the needle before trying to insert it into the line.

    If it transpires that the core will not permit a spliced joint then cut both line ends at a shallow 30 degree angle before super gluing them together with waterproof glue. Then cover the joint with a 2.5 to 3 inch length of braided nylon & make a secure whipped joint at one end with a synthetic fly tying thread; then stretch the nylon as tightly as possible before whipping the other end (on the other length of line beyond the joint) ensuring all loose nylon ends are covered by the whipping thread.

    A couple of coats of Cotol thinned Aquasure, the first worked well into the braid & bonding to the fly line below, the second to smooth everything out (add a third if required) & you should be good to go.

    Regards, Tyke.

  4. #4

    Default splicing

    If the core of the line is braid ?
    Strip the plastic 1" off both ends by immersing i, nail varnish remover for 8/10 minutes ? , use your fingernails to remove coating , overlap the 2 braids so 3 eighths to half an inch between the 2 plastic coatings, use a bobbin holder with thread and swing the bh using both hands over and over back and forth, left and right the length of braids , coat with varnish in between passings, then double the separate braids back one at a time and repeat threading over, whip finish , then coat with Aquasure ,

    Neatness is how you you perform , Try a practice run on old spare cut offs ?

    If line is nylon core ? will not hold as strong ?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Makemland
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    1,861

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by New Era View Post
    If the core of the line is braid ?
    Strip the plastic 1" off both ends by immersing i, nail varnish remover for 8/10 minutes ? , use your fingernails to remove coating , overlap the 2 braids so 3 eighths to half an inch between the 2 plastic coatings, use a bobbin holder with thread and swing the bh using both hands over and over back and forth, left and right the length of braids , coat with varnish in between passings, then double the separate braids back one at a time and repeat threading over, whip finish , then coat with Aquasure ,

    Neatness is how you you perform , Try a practice run on old spare cut offs ?

    If line is nylon core ? will not hold as strong ?
    I use much the same method.But instead of stripping both pieces i just strip the thicker piece about 1-1/2 inches then push the thinner section up inside the braided core.
    Then a put tiny dot of super glue next to the joint.Spin the thread from the joint down to the end covering the frayed part which stretches the braid as it goes.Then spin back and forth tapering it from the joint.This gives a nice taper without having to go on the thicker piece.
    Then cover with Aquasure.
    This is my fishing rod!.
    There are many like it but this one is mine.
    Without me,my rod is useless!.
    Without my rod,i am useless!.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Bucksburn, Aberdeen
    Posts
    239

    Default Splicing lines

    Well it looks like the shooting head I cut doesn't have a braid core in fact I can't see any sort of core. Is that even possible? I cut up inside a waste section of the head and it just appears to be the same material as the outer part. Maybe I need to get some nail varnish remover to check fully? Looks like I may have to just attach loops to both ends after all!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    South Beach, Oregon
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Outside from salmon fishing my other type of fishing I use 80 pond test. That stuff is expensive so I "Uni-knot" it together. Would that even be applicable in your situation?
    Last edited by Dave G; 17-04-2018 at 09:07 PM.
    If I'm not fishing, then I am wishing.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Cambridgeshire Fenland
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    999

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by leuchar View Post
    .........and avoid the "clunk" as the join goes through the tip ring of the rod.
    The join shouldn't be inside the tip ring should it ?? Surely would be part of your "overhang" just outside the tip ring.

    Loop/loop has always worked for me and is simple and easily replaced for any wear & tear

    Good luck with it, whatever you end up using !!

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