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Thread: repairing Afs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wiltshire
    Posts
    4,108

    Default repairing Afs

    Guys,
    I want to repair a Rio afs hover. The plastic coating has cracked open all the way round just behind the premade loop at the back end. Probably just casting hinging/wear.

    I have a new one but want to repair this one so I've a spare in my bag when I go away. I've looked at it very carefully under a microscope in the lab and the core looks perfectly intact.

    I intended to repair it with aquasure in two stages, firstly gluing the gaps on the internal surfaces of the crack. Then when fully dry put a coating or 'jacket' of aquasure over the crack smoothing that with a wet cotton bud to make a slim sleeve of glue over the top.

    Sound ok? Any other good ways of doing it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    I live in the Scottish Highlands
    Posts
    1,803

    Default

    Cut off and whip a new loop, I had a loop break on me at that very point during casting and lost my killer fly the leader and a tip. Good job I didn't have a fish on

  3. #3

    Default

    Google it and there is a Youtube video showing how to weld a new loop with a heat gun. If you dont feel confident with that then, as suggested, cut off the old loop and fit a salmon Braided Loop. My Rio 8/9 is repaired in this way and if you take care with the loop you should have no problem with it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Dublin
    Posts
    1,502

    Default

    I have wondered whether it is possible to repair such damage with a heat-gun by melting slivers of an old fly line (not an Airflo as they are made of polyurethane) in the hope that the plastics would merge and set solid?
    Why not?
    H

  5. #5

    Default

    Don't faff about with any of that, chop it and put on a Roman Moser.

  6. #6

    Default

    In my opinion the Aquasure repair you have suggested is as good as anything providing that the core is fine. I don't like braided loops especially on the rear of a head and i'm not keen on welding loops, if you get it wrong you wil ruin the core.

    Good luck withwhat ever you decide.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Clackmannan
    Posts
    3,249

    Default Spot on

    Quote Originally Posted by porteouz View Post
    Don't faff about with any of that, chop it and put on a Roman Moser.
    Agree with Porteouz,Roman Moser loop,fishin glue and sleeve.
    For extra security and overkill you could whip thread over the join and place heat shrinkwrap sleeve over connection.
    Last edited by Denfield Bud; 22-02-2015 at 11:50 AM.

  8. #8

    Default

    Alternatively , you could follow the procedure in Donal's thread.
    You'll eventually need it to replace the remainder of your factory loops when they wear out.

    http://www.salmonfishingforum.com/fo...read65506.html
    Last edited by ibm59; 22-02-2015 at 11:55 AM.
    Remember Thomas Muir of Huntershill

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    East Lothian
    Posts
    4,199

    Default

    Dryfly, since your asking this question it sounds to me like it's cracked over a longer length than just the welded loop area?

    If it isn't, a braided loop is probably the easiest way to go. Don't use the plastic sleeve or use superglue at all (it cracks quickly - forming a lubricant!)

    The smoothest and strongest joint will be with the end of the braided sleeve whipped for about an inch then aquasured (get the aquasure to soak into the whipping - if you thin it with toluene or cotol you'll get a great result)

  10. #10

    Default

    I never uses braided loops any more but strip the last couple of inches back to the core. If the core is suitable use a needle to make a braided style loop in the core, if not double the core back. A quick bind with open turns, then I give it a coat of superglue gel, which hopefully doesn't crack, rebind thoroughly and then 2 coats of aquasure. Works for me.

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