Page 1 of 14 12311 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 134
Like Tree24Likes

Thread: How to make a Fly Reel

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    55 44.3N 003 43.4W
    Posts
    379

    Default How to make a Fly Reel

    I thought I would share with everyone on the Forum the Step by Step process of making a 3 Piece Style, 4inch Wide Drum Fly Reel.

    This style of reel has become popular of late in the States and especially amongst Steelhead Fishers. Ed Ward even has a Narrow Drum Perfect hanging from his Loomis Dredger in his DVD Skagit Master.

    With collectors paying silly money for an old one, and the latest reproductions just as expensive I decided to see what all the fuss was about and make my own.

    I decided to use 8082 T6 Bar stock to make my reel, which is stronger than 6061 T6 that a lot of American Manufacturers use. I also set myself the challenge of making it entirely on my 1960s Lathe and hand tools.

    The Main Frame/Cage

    Centre drilling prior to machining


    Cleaning up the Bar Stock


    Parting as deep as possible


    Cutting the remainder by hand


    About 2 lb


    Machining the inside of cage


    Profiling the outside


    Milling out the windows (only using my dividing head as my rotary table is too big to fit on my vertical slide)



    After some hand finishing


    View from winding plate side


    The Reel Foot

    I have decided to make the foot to the AFFTA Spec so that it should fit most rods.

    A lot of the older reels have huge feet and some people actually fish with their reel taped to their rod with electrical tape!

    Squaring up some alloy for the reel foot


    Machining to thickness


    Drilling locating holes


    Using a Ball Nose Slot Drill to profile the Foot


    Making a mandrel to hold the foot


    Ready for machining


    First taper complete


    Second taper complete


    Using a Fly Cutter to radius the foot base for locating on cage


    Counterboring for heads of fixing screws


    Completed foot



    Fits nicely on the cage


    Bearing Assembly

    Starting off with a 2 Piece of Brass


    Turn to size


    Drill


    Ream to size


    Form a groove for the ball bearings


    Insert some Stainless Steel Ball Bearings and form a cup around them by a process called spinning whereby the metal is forced into shape by applying pressure from a polished tool as it rotates.



    I still have to drill and fit 3 retaining screws, but things are starting to take shape



    Spool


    I decided to make the Spool out of a hard black plastic called Delrin. It is used to make items such as bearings and gears and it does not absorb moisture as much as Nylon so can be used in marine applications. Also it is nice to machine.

    Roughing out to size


    If you keep the tools sharp you can get a good finish without the need for papering.


    Setting up for drilling the holes in the spool. I am sure whoever made the original model of this style of reel had a warped sense of humour by making a 13 hole pattern. As you will have probably guessed 13 does not go into 360 degrees exactly. The worm drive on my dividing head is 60:1 so I need to turn the handle 4 and 56/91 turns to advance the spool to drill the next hole. Luckily the outer ring on plate N0.1 has 91 holes, so all I need to do is turn the handle 4 complete turns and 56 notches.


    I am using a stub drill which is a lot shorter than say a normal jobbers type drill bit. This prevents the bit from wandering and saves using a centre bit to start the hole.


    Almost complete.

    I think the black ads a bit of colour if you know what I mean.




    Spindle and Gear


    I decided to make the check gear teeth out of some silver steel which is a type of tool steel that can be hardened then tempered if required. Because it is a pawl type arrangement and not a train of gears then there is no need to cut an involute profile. I have used a 60 degree double angle cutter and 40 teeth makes it a nice easy 1 turns of the dividing head per tooth.

    Drilling out a piece of 40mm Silver Steel


    Roughing out a piece of brass


    Pressing the ring of Silver Steel onto the spindle and securing with retainer. I will drill some round key pins at a later stage


    Turning the groove to fit the ball race


    Threading the end of the spindle


    Set up for cutting the teeth using a dividing head on the vertical slide on my lathe


    First cut


    After three cuts per tooth


    Finished spindle and check gear


    This is where it goes



    Winding Plate


    I decided to make the winding plate out of Delrin to match the spool. I was a bit worried that the thin disk of Delrin would not be up to the task so I needed a way of strengthening it. I decided to make a serpentine shaped handle that would provide the strength and then the Delrin would just be a cover plate bearing no load.

    Clean up some 4 Alloy and turn a small boss to secure to spindle and part as deep as possible prior to sawing off by hand


    Drill and Tap


    Saw by hand and face to thickness


    Mark out the serpentine shape


    Saw roughly to shape


    File to shape


    Turning and threading the counterweight before parting off and chamfering


    Turn, chamfer, drill and counterbore the Delrin for the handle


    Turning a flat disk of Delrin on a mandrel


    Completed winding plate assembly


    Ive still got lots to do but couldnt resist a sneak preview



    Check Mechanism

    I am starting off with the shoe for the check spring by turning a ring of aluminium and parting off to size


    Set up to cut out a groove with a flycutter




    Super Glue the ring inside the reel cage and set up to drill hole for rim tension adjuster




    Tapping the shoe with a 6BA Tap


    A couple of hours work to make this little bit of metal!


    Clean up some brass for the rim tension adjuster


    Knurl (would have used a fine straight type knurl if I had one)


    Turn down to size for thread


    Form thread


    Part off and dome head




    Pawl retaining screw about to be parted off


    Set up for slotting heads of screws with a slitting saw. Note the improvised use of an angle bracket to get close the headstock.






    Drill, countersink and partially part a piece of silver steel to make the pawl


    Mark out prior to sawing and filling to shape




    Almost ready for assembly


    Completed check mechanism




    I am not too keen to have any bare brass on show on the outside of the reel as I think the gold clashes with the black and silver. I have decided to nickel plate the rim tension adjuster and the reel foot screws. I have gone for a matt finish rather than the normal shiny finish as I think it matches the aluminium better.

    After a scrub with a toothbrush and detergent I wrapped some fine copper wire around the groove in the thread and lowered it into some nitric acid based de-oxidiser and de-smutting solution for 30 seconds.


    After a rinse in some de-ionized water I am ready to lower it into my DIY plating tank containing nickel electrolyte heated to about 30deg with nickel anodes running off a twelve volt battery.


    I never used any brightening solution and found that twenty minutes was enough to give a nice matt finish.


    I think this should match the aluminium nicely.




    Anodising

    Instead of a highly polished finish I prefer a matt finish to the aluminium which I achieved by using a scotchbrite pad for the final polish. Prior to anodising I gave everything a good scrub with detergent and rinsed thoroughly.


    Each component gets attached to some aluminium wire then the first step of the anodising process is to dip them into some sodium hydroxide de-oxidising solution. Remember these any nasty chemicals so please do not try this at home unless you know what you are doing and remember to wear protective clothing, rubber gloves and face protection and work in a well ventilated area.


    Here you can see the solution at work. The longer the item is left in the solution then the more matt the surface becomes


    Rinse in de-ionised water then dip in nitric acid based de-oxidiser and de-smutting solution


    Another rinse in de-ionised water then into the anodising bath containing sulphuric acid and powered by a 12Volt battery


    Bubbling away nicely


    After about twenty minutes remove and thoroughly rise in water. If the items were to be dyed then that would be done next followed by boiling in a sealer to fix the colour.



    After re-assembly and some final adjustments it is ready to put a line on it and go fishing.




    The reel weighs in at 11 ounces and is pictured here loaded with 100yds of backing and a #10 Double Taper Salmon Line.
    Last edited by Blue Zulu; 15-03-2011 at 02:22 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    1,589

    Default

    Superb Neil,

    Another brilliant post, thourghly enjoyable. I await the next with the bearing mounting.

    It's amazing the number of Bridgeport Mills with Steppers and Cnc units attached that are being discarded for free currently, looks like your got space

    Superb!
    Last edited by Scanny; 12-01-2011 at 02:51 AM.
    "In Britain we have a saying for situations like this.......difficult, difficult, lemon, difficult"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    80

    Default

    Very interesting and entertaining pics - many thanks! Gives a little perpective to those who think that a machined fly reel should be a cheap instrument.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    THE SLANEY VALLEY
    Posts
    1,488

    Default

    Fair play Zulu,most intresting thread i've seen on here in ages.
    I'll take your second effort off your hands .
    and in August.... the barley grew up out of their graves

    Seamus Heaney ,Requiem for the croppies.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Clitheroe Lancs
    Posts
    1,718

    Default

    Excellent post and as a time served machinist I can fully apreciate the work involved. I just wish I had made my own when I was still on the machines as I dont get to do any machining in the quality dept.

    Looking forward to the next part.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Co Antrim/Co Mayo
    Posts
    933

    Default

    First class Great bit of engineering. When are you taking orders?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    sale
    Posts
    1,738

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    London / Co. Mayo
    Posts
    426

    Default

    superb work. top marks.


    i cant wait to see part 2.


    do you mind me asking how long would it take to make this reel from start to finish?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Dalmellington
    Posts
    3,865

    Default

    Well done mate. Lovely to see the lathe working.

    Years since I used one .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Nice work!

Page 1 of 14 12311 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •