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11-07-2010, 11:40 PM #21
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Rocky Mountains
- Read 0 Reviews
It looks like your splice broke right where they always do for me- the point where the core was separated having the inner line passed through it for the blind hole. I check my splices (try to break them so there is no question of failing out in the field) before beginning a new season. Some have survived extensive use over about 2 years (when the flyline is often shot anyway). Most make it about a year. My longest lasting glue splices have been from using Zap Flex.
12-07-2010, 07:37 AM #22
Glad to hear that I might get a couple of years out of the splice William
By the way, I am a big fan of your Lathe work
22-07-2010, 04:19 PM #23
neil this should win post of the year very good
23-07-2010, 09:53 PM #25
I can see where your concern is coming from. I myself used to think how can a join be secure that solely relies on Plastic to Plastic and not core to core.
Well, a nail knot relies on the grip of a few millimetres onto the plastic and it holds. Also a braided sleeve whether using the tubing supplied or a whipped and glued connection again only relies on grip to the plastic.
I know welded loops will not be 100% effective all of the time but after a bit of practise you can tell whether you have done a good weld or a bad one . If any weld looks dodgy then I will chop it off and start again, whether its one I have done myself or a factory fitted one.
I give all my loops a good test before use but more importantly regularly check them whilst in use. Any sign of damage then it gets the chop and redone. In fact I carry the gear in my bag and with a bit of practise you can do it on the river bank in minutes.
At the end of the day you should only use what method you have confidence in.
24-07-2010, 09:42 AM #26
09-03-2011, 11:59 AM #27
BZ, Could you just clarify which tip you use on the Iroda 70 as I have purchased one and I am not sure if the extra tip that comes with the torch is the hot air.
09-03-2011, 01:38 PM #28
The set I have, came with a standard Soldering Iron plus 3 Additional Tips - one of which was a Hot Air Tip. I also purchased a Diffuser Tip (Click to View) that pushes onto the end of the Hot Air Tip.
If purchasing just the Soldering Iron on its own you would need to buy a Hot Air Tip and a Diffuser Tip extra.
Here is a picture that should help.
You can adjust the temperature by using the little lever operated valve but also you can slide the Diffuser up and down the Tip.
09-03-2011, 02:39 PM #29
Thanks very much for your advise.
I have the diffuser but was unsure which tip was required, from the Iroda info it looks like an SO6 or Maplin ref NO6AQ ?
Last edited by gerry atric; 09-03-2011 at 02:44 PM.
09-03-2011, 03:11 PM #30
From the Iroda website (Click here to display) it looks like an S-07 Heat Blower and an S-30 Deflector or if you could get hold of one then a combined S-08 would be ideal.
You can tell which one it is, as you can see a little bit of fine mesh gauze inside.
I think the S-06 is a Blow Torch for soldering and will be way too hot.
Hope this Helps